Video of the steps to prepare Carne Adovada. Video by Liddie Martinez
Editor’s note: Author Liddie Martinez will be signing copies of her award winning book Chile Line Cookbook: Historic Recipes of Northern New Mexico, 2-4 p.m. Saturday, Dec. 11 at the Los Alamos Daily Post, 1247 Central Ave.
Española Valley
When we began growing Chimayo red chile on our farm, neither my husband Rick nor I anticipated the dedication and devotion required nor the knee cartilage we would be sacrificing for this small, heritage crop.
Once I had the seeds in my hot little hands, I was hooked. I visited my greenhouse daily and watched the seeds sprout into vibrant green shoots and celebrated each new leaf. I pinched off the early blooms to ensure all energy was being used to create strong and healthy plants.
In May, after we transplanted, I prayed we would be spared every time hail was in the forecast. When the first of the chilies appeared and then turned bright red-orange, like pirate’s treasure in the field, I felt a level of joy that can only be compared to miracles, like babes being born. Then I knew that I was really a farmer.
Chimayo Red is a very hard crop to grow. Demand far exceeds supply and so it is also incredibly expensive to source. Not many farmers grow this ancient heritage crop anymore and now, I understand why. It demands daily attention, will not live among weeds. It grows so close to the ground that your back and knees will make a solid case for not planting those seeds next season, a debate my husband and I lament every year. But the cook in me demands that I find a way to get those seeds planted because food will only ever be as good as the quality of the ingredients you source and nothing beats homegrown.
Grandma made it all look so easy but it has taken me a lifetime to master her techniques. I remember her hands burning after cleaning piles of pods for our family Christmas celebration and her saying it was a good way to relieve arthritis pain. Now Capsaicin Ointment is nearing a billion-dollar industry – who knew? In our family Christmas was a cultural celebration with tamales, enchiladas, a bowl of posole and red chile or, if you were really lucky, carne adovada.
This recipe is not difficult but it will require time to find the Chimayo red pods and process them. Of course, you can substitute and use other available red chile including Hatch, but Chimayo red is worth the search. It has a medium hot level of heat that makes its presence known without taking over the show and a wonderful smokey flavor that is bound to the earth like a campfire and it finishes with a sweet undertone that marks your palate. Use pork butt; you can trim off some of the fat but don’t overdo it. Fat adds flavor and will keep your dish moist and tender. Don’t be tempted to purchase the more expensive pork loin, you will be disappointed with the dry outcome.
Make sure that you do not skip refrigeration overnight allowing the pork pieces to marinade in the chile. The garlic and onion acts as the acid that will help tenderize resulting in pork pieces that will fall apart with the gentle push from a fork. No need for vinegar, which I have seen used in other recipes; garlic and onions have a similar pH rating to vinegar and will do the job and enhance the flavor rather than dominate.
Carne Adovada
18 – 20 Dry Chile Pods of desired heat
6 Cloves Garlic, peeled
1 Onion, chopped
2 Teaspoons Salt
3 Tablespoons Olive Oil
3 Cups Water
2 Pounds Pork Shoulder, trimmed and cut into small chunks
Pre-heat oven to 375 F with rack on lower half. Clean chile pods by removing stems and seeds, soak in water in a large bowl using a plate to weigh down pods.
In a cast iron skillet, combine garlic, onion, and oil and season with salt. Roast on the lower rack. Set timer for 25 minutes.
Drain pods and them in a large pot covered with fresh water. Bring to a boil then reduce heat and simmer for 220 minutes.
When the over timer goes off, both the veggie mix and the chile pods are ready to puree. Puree in three batches with about a cup of water. Chile will have small bits in it which is exactly what you want. When finished place pork in a large Dutch oven and pour chile over to cover. Refrigerate overnight. Allow pot to stand on counter for 1 hour to bring to room temperature before cooking.
Pre-heat oven to 300 F and bake for about 3 hours until fork tender and pork falls apart
Editor’s note: Liddie Martinez is the author of the popular Chile Line Cookbook: Historic Recipes of Northern New Mexico, which is available online at www.pajaritopress.com.
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Liddie's Traditional New Mexican Dishes: Carne Adovada - Los Alamos Daily Post
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